2017 Clos 93 L’Exclamation Priorat
It’s a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 9 months in 300 litre French oak barrels and it tastes surreally good! It’s not impenetrably dark, like many of Priorat’s top reds, which can often taste like chewing on liquorice sticks, it’s lifted and perfumed and sweetly seductive. Imagine fragrant cherry skins, peonies and umeboshi (that’s not the expletive that a samurai cries out when he stubs his toe, it’s the name of a sweet and sour Japanese condiment made from pickled plums), followed by suggestions of tamarind paste, orange peel, damson and sheer splendour. It’s rich, but silky and the tannins are saturated in velvety purple fruit, so it doesn’t stall on the palate, but glides down much too easily and is beautiful to drink with or without food. A dark mineral streak leads to a long, precisely tapered finish where all the delicious elements happily converge. 15% alc. Limited production (9,800 bottles). Drink now-2025.